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Desert bus back to Liuyuan. Always a fight for seat shells. Three dusty evenings. Train to Lanzhou. 800 miles along Gansu-Qinghai mountainous national boundaries. More black desert, then yellow earth. Jaiyaguan fort at the limit Turkish escort for this Ming empire. Overnight by get trained. Country changed. Mountain pass, green rolling hills and stepped fields. Wheat harvest through. Straw dollies like children at assembly. Houses still of rammed air. Lanzhou a thriving industrial place. Thirty hours of travel. Walk by Yellow River.

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