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Don’t be greedy. Now, I understand that this is all about getting the top dollar for your car, but, there is a walk-away price for any business. Most salvagers are only willing to pay a little more then half of what they can make off the car. So, if your asking price is more then 65% of what they can make, then they will more then likely walk away from it.

What I suggest is that you do negotiate with the owner but be fair on the price. For example if the car is you are looking is $4,000 the owner might bite if you negotiate the price to $3,000. Try to negotiate in increments of 500.

Only call the salvage yard as a last resort. Salvage yards are only willing to give you the minimum for your where to sell your car parts. For obvious reasons. They receive calls all the time from people that want to get rid of their cars for a buck. You are no different. They are in the position to make the rules.

Check the shelf life – it is better to buy car battery that hasn’t been sitting on the shelf for a long time (this greatly reduces its warranty and actual life span on your car). Get one that has been there for at least twelve months. (tip: to know when the battery was manufactured or delivered, check the label on the bottom for the shipping date code. The letter stands for the month is was manufactured, and the number stands for the year. So a battery with a M8 label means that it was manufactured on March 2008).

In order to sell car, you have to get it evaluated first. The evaluator takes a thorough quality check about the car’s current specs and features, the position of its interiors, and outer look. Therefore, you have to take good care of your car to sell it at a decent price.

Many of us are familiar with vehicles that are associated with our past in such a way that it can be very hard to let go of them. This is why many people have old cars parked in their backyards for several years. Even though these cars do not work, the emotional attachment with them is what makes it hard to sell them.